Dresden

You've seen the historic side now the other side (literally since its across the river). The Neustadt has become the "old town" in a way since it has no tourist arcades or big reconstruction, instead the dingy 19th century grid pattern remains along with post-communist graffiti. The snow masked most of the greyness but it was still there.
For fashion spotters Germany is always fun - its not fashion or chic its about self-expression and trying to be radical while getting allowed back home at the end of the night! For this season camouflage outfits are the new black and the white-backed winter camouflage could be the new white (well maybe not!). My personal favourite spot was the "cleavage hoodie" - take a normal hoodie, make a cut down from where the hood join and turn it into a V-neck. For best effect wear with hood back. Unfortunately the one I saw turned the V-neck into a plunging-V and just showed more of what she didnt have, then tried to marry it with the round glasses and "council-facelift" hair tied back of the librarian look. Poor girl. Like Berlin Dresden is an "alternative" sort of town - an interesting mix of people adjusting to capitalism and commercial pressure while embracing the freedom to express themselves however they like.
We began drinking at the hostel bar but it wasnt very exciting especially with mullets and leather pants at the next table. So we went in search of elsewhere - Perth nostalgia got the better of Joerg and I and we had a few in Little Creatures Dresden - the temperature gauge is the temperature inside! (for non-Perthites Little Creatures is a microbrewery in WA which produces excellent beer. Excitingly you can drink this onsite straight from the keg. Even more excitingly it is next to the water at Fishing Boat Harbour with a fantastic view. When you thought it couldnt get any better they cook very good, and very interesting, food to accompany aforementioned excellent beer).
Seeing as sex-bread was 2euros in Zittau, sex for 3euros is a bargain. Still not sure who paid who out of these two ;)
Eventually we called it a night, Joerg and I went back to the hostel to find everyone still up at 2am - a relief for me as I had to tell my new dormies I would be waking them up at 5am to get to my train. Two struck my attention as they seemed to have got very close - if the snogging in front of us didnt give it away it was conversation like "Wheres the white wine I was drinking earlier" "Here it is" "Oh you're my MacGyver". Undying love through 80s action shows. She found out he'd never had a martini and they both headed to the kitchen to rectify this. About 3.30am they came back..... you can guess what happens next. In hostelling across the world I have never had couples having sex across the dorm from me before but I tell you what I have also never taken such joy in waking a dorm up ridiculously early.

To add to our joy Joerg and I had to scrape snow/ice off his car (well he scraped - I need to be passed out on that SWP!) before trying to make a train which I then delayed by hanging half out to scrawl on sista P's postcard. At Berlin we ended up spending 2 hours on the tarmac while the runway and plane was de-iced, and re-de-iced (snow isn't just pretty!). I knew where I was going with the "Got your boarding pass? Nice one guv" from the hostie. We also had 15 minutes in Luton while we waited for the buses to get over to the terminus (they seemed surprised a plane had landed). To complete the set this announcement came over the train "Ladies and Gentleman, this is your train manager. Im not sure why we're stopped so Im waiting for the driver to get back to me however as soon as he does I'll get back to you about whats happening". Thank heavens for the Tube.....

The Altstadt in Dresden

After leaving Freiberg the plan was to get to Dresden, walk around the Altstadt before dinner and heading out drinking. However while snow looks lovely in photos it also slows driving down. So we ended up needing some "reviving" beers in the hostel before heading off. Which then turned into needing dinner as well. So after dinner we set off on our tour - this is now 9pm! - but the delay meant that a uni friend of Joerg's came along too. Which was excellent as "hes a real local - he knows everything about Dresden"!

So I caused the first (and possibly only) night walking tour of Dresden with tour guide Tomas pushing his bicycle through the snow and us all coping with temperatures around -10. He did indeed know everything e.g. the first skyscraper in Germany is near the edge of the Neustadt and was built in the 1920s. The other highlight of the tour was the refreshments - Claudia had been carrying a bottle of bubbly all day to celebrate the season - now it was used to stave off cold!

Dresden is the capital of Saxony and therefore contains the palaces of the royal family. The most famous of the Saxon Kings/Electors was Augustus the Strong - interestingly a guidebook described him as "particularily odious" yet nowhere in Saxony did he seem better or wose than anyone else, in fact he seems to have done a lot in terms of construction and empire-building (I suppose it depends whether you were with him or being opressed/invaded by him). Augustus was the first King to convert back to Catholicism, not for any religious reasons but to increase his power - he realised he could not defeat Poland (Saxony and Prussia had been trying for years) but if he converted to Catholicism he could marry the daughter of the Polish King. The story is he was taking one for the boys - the rumour is she was no oil painting and in fact no paintings (oil or otherwise) exist to prove the rumour right or wrong (implying its true!). As a way to prove he was a devout Catholic he built an enormous Cathedral right next door to his palace (see below). It worked - he married her and became King of Poland, although his sons subsequently lost Poland to the Russians and converted back to Protestants.

After the bombing of Dresden you could stand at the river and see 5-6kms of absolutely nothing. Since the war it has been rebuilt through a combination of public and private funding - one of the landmarks occurred this year with the finishing of the Frauenkirche, the Protestant Church of Our Lady and one of the first Protestant churches. You can google it and find out the religious significance but as a cultural symbol for Saxony and Germany it means a lot. The dark bricks below are bricks re-used from the original structure (which gives you an idea of the extent of the damage, pretty much nothing remained above 10m).
The reconstruction process began with the coming down of the wall and involved donations from nearly everyone in Germany. It was driven by the same feelings Ive seen earlier in Berlin and Hamburg, the feeling of guilt about the events that occurred, the feeling of shame that a nation so great could turn its enormous power to war, and the pain at having hurt others and themselves so much. The rebuilding is not about providing a tourist market or driven by religious pressures it represents the reconstruction of a country and of the heritage that existed before the war, it is an attempt to show that German national pride is nothing to be ashamed of but also its a memorial to what occurred. The patchwork nature of the building will cause children and tourists well into the future to ask why.

Our tour finished as logically as it started. At the Frauenkirche Tomas turned to me "We have no more alcohol and there is really nothing more to see. I think we should go back to a pub if you are happy you've seen enough". Who can argue with that?

Freiberg

Freiberg is an ancient mining town west of Dresden where silver (and other metals) were mined starting from the 12th century. “Free mountain” is so named as the miners were given their freedom and allowed to keep whatever they extracted (not like Aussie government royalties). Because of mining Freiberg was the economic centre of Saxony and the royal family spent a lot of time here to keep an eye on their money (including being buried here to allow them to check on their investments from the afterlife?!). According to the information booklet (yes I read one - this entry almost has accurate facts – shock!) the “friendly residents even today use the miners greeting”. I should really know what that is but I never saw it in uni. I suspect it has something to do with alcohol - over dinner a friends dad “introduced” me to some of the schnapps varieties in the area (as well as sampling the local Freiberger Pils). Half a dozen shots later I was allowed out of the house and safely into a pub. Beer, just what I needed! Not that more beer was a bad thing – at -5 and snowing the alcohol blanket was essential. After a few beers in the pubs we went wandering to try and find a pub for another couple (Joerg was keen to inspect all his old uni haunts, I was interested in more beer and less cold!) but it degenerated into snow fights and pressing our noses up against bars trying to shut up for the night. Somewhere in the drunken haze I managed to take one of the best photos Ive ever taken (submitted below for internet criticism!).
The next day found us walking around town in the snow – here are gratuitous snow shots because I don’t get to play in snow that much!
No thats not dirt on the lens - its snow!!!!!I never knew Tupperware was in Germany – let alone supplied company cars!
Later in the arvo we ended up in the worst internet place Ive been – strange since it was in a computer shop. To start the guy was a little coy on whether he had internet or not (something about the bondage outfit worn by the customer before us made me wonder whether “internet” was a codeword for something). The eight computers set up on a mezzanine level seemed to be a giveaway so he then began stressing about us not being able to download anything – not a big deal when all you’re trying to do is find a hostel in Dresden but important enough to tell us 3 times. The hard part was printing my train ticket. The instructions were: hit print, choose b&w or colour, done. Yeah right. Mr Utility Jeans (200 zips and more dangling cables/chains than available for sale in his shop) took a good 20 minutes to figure out the problem – umm, err, hit print, umm, err, hit print again. Check paper, toner and repeat. Eventually - someone hadnt installed the software. Excuse me? You have 8 computers and you can’t network them to a printer. If that’s what he can’t do in his own shop just think what he couldn’t do for your LAN. Good luck with your business mate – you’ll need it seeing as you don’t have any ability.

Freiberg Cathedral

The Freiberg Cathedral is the only Protestant church to be called a cathedral - it was built (& rebuilt) as a cathedral, converted to a Protestant church, then re-instated due to the Saxon kings converting to Catholicism at strategic times. Several members of the royal family are buried here. It also contains a 2674 pipe Silbermann organ (organ players will know the significance of that). One of the more famous parts of the cathedral is the Tulip Pulpit which looks like it belongs in a pantomime set not in a cathedral.
Another is the Golden Arch, one of the earliest surviving step portals. This was the entrance door to the 12th Century church but became a side door when the cathedral was rebuilt after a fire in 1484. Unusually someone actually realised the value of it in the 18th century and built a protective glasshouse around it.
German churches have a special box for the local aristocracy so they could get close to God without having to mix with ordinary people. So the Dom has a royal box and also a box for the mining guild. The little statue on the box proves that even 15th Century German miners are feral buggers with long beards!!
The lovely thing about being a tourist is that sometimes you have endure the humiliation of being picked out from the crowd. So it is in Freiberg. If you want to take photos inside the Dom you have to pay for the privilege, to prove you are allowed to you have to wear a lovely bright green “FOTO” sticker – which just screams “I’m a tourist, rip me off and insult me”!

Herrnhut

Herrnhut was founded by a Christian movement (surprise, surprise) from Moravia who moved to Saxony in the 15th Century and granted the land by the local landowner. Herrnhut means "under the care of the Lord" and interesting the movement still exists in the town to this day. Herrnhut is also the home of the shop which sells the Christmas stars.

The Herrnhut cemetry on a wintry and freezing day. Headstones here are laid flat on the ground, and unlike the rest of Germany you're safe from being dug up after 20 years.

The Herrnhut church - as rebuilt after World War II when it survived up until the last months of the war only to be burnt by the Russians. The church originally included the belltower in the foreground, however to make the burning even more senseless and destructive there wasnt enough money to include it in the restoration.

We drove over to Freiberg today, including passing the bridge over the autobahn for animals so they dont try and cross the road. Unfortunately since its a concrete bridge with vegetation on top the photo looks like a concrete bridge with trees on it. Not so exciting.

More exciting is this photo as its the only proof Ive been to the Czech Republic (no stamps in the passport, no nothing). We went there for fuel on the way as fuel is cheaper there. As are cigarettes and alcohol (one thing time in Eastern Germany gives you is an appreciation for Czech beer!!), plus theres good skiing. Its a weird thing that you can just pop over to the Czech Republic to pick up a bargain or have a ski and be home that night when Ive sat in Perth so many times trying to work out how and when we can get there. It seems almost disrespectful to not do something!!!!

Oybin

View from castle towards Zittau

A robber baron fort, a monastery, once host to the Prussian King for Christmas (celebrated with a re-enactment every year for the last 200 years, wonder if they'll do anything to commemorate our visit next year?!) and frequently changing hands because of its strategic position if you want to attack/defend/control/annoy the area. Oybin and the other villages in the Zittau Mountains are now tourist haunts for day-trippers from Berlin and elsewhere. And very pretty. Especially when snowing. But also bloody freezing (-5 anyone?!). Not enough to stop one young fashion victim in Oybin sporting a "midriff" top - yes nothing says you're sexy and fashionable like exposing your stomach to -5. Personally I prefer warding off the cup with a nice steaming cup of gluhwein - nothing like mulled wine at the top of a snowy mountain (this photo is calculated to make anyone of Germanic/Austrian origin jealous and I know at least 7 who will be :)

The Kloisterkirche - note Joerg's "runway" strut

I took a photo through a window for a change

Christmas

Christmas Lunch - duck, dumplings, red cabbage, brussel sprouts
After lunch we walked up Kottmar - see photos below. This one shows why Christmas in Germany - snow, fir trees, lights.... awwwww....

So after all that excitment Joerg and I headed out for a beer. We went to the "Old Bakery" a bar/cafe converted from a bakery (hence the name!) into an alternative hangout including a cinema. Sounds cool hey? Well remember where I am. In the former East Germany these sort of places are not "cool" they are a political statement, and in a way a lot of the self-expression I love about Germany is also bourne as a reaction to totalitarianism. The simple decision of where you have a beer can affect the rest of your life – political awareness was forced on the young adults here as they were growing up and everything involved a choice and a stance of what you believe in. For example people not being allowed to finish high school since they wouldn’t take a “coming of age” oath (would you promise to further and promote socialism?), or their high school certificate wasn’t recognised because they went to a church high school. The wooden toys and chocolate shot glasses you've seen in the photos were nearly impossible to get in this time since they were used for export (or for senior Party people). Luckily the young generation now are not only able to enjoy all the joys of Christmas, but also will be free from the political pressures and the need to be clear about what you believe in, although losing that awareness will be a shame in a way.

In this region there have been several different kings, rulers, governments all with different belief sets - after an invasion your ruler may be Catholic instead of Protestant, he may be less or more tolerant of religious differences. In addition families (including my family) which come as refugees or migrants become used to assimilating into a culture so they can become part of the community - sometimes they adopted the beliefs around them, sometimes they changed them by adding parts of their own beliefs, sometimes they continued in their own ways either in public or secret. Perhaps that’s why people managed to survive socialism and then overthrow it, it was just another “religion” forced on people.

Kottmar

Since a white Christmas didn't come to us we went to it..... also when you eat a big Christmas lunch you should probably find a mountain to climb to work some of it off.

Would you follow this guy up a track?

View north towards Lobau from the Kottmar ski jump

Posing in front of the tower to prove I made it up the hill. The stairs in the tower were iced up so we weren't allowed to climb it (secretly Im not too unhappy about that!)

The Spreequelle - the spring which is the source of the Spree river which flows north to Berlin (significantly the river is contained wholly within what was the DDR). The surrounding brickwork is a Great War memorial.

Christvesper, Christmas Eve

On Christmas Eve I went to Christvesper at Joergs church. The church is 14th/15th Century and immaculate inside with pristine white paint, gold trim (photos, photos). The service was the normal mix of readings, Christmas carols (all in German, although Silent Night is universal) to a full house of families with kids either enjoying it or making their own fun. There was a “updated” nativity play starting from angels concerned about less prayers, changing to an emergency ward and paramedics complaining that Christmas was just another day but then a Navity play came to the ward which made everyone remember the Christmas message. Of course you wish it was this succinct - like all amateur productions it went on a bit. There were musical interludes from the ministers husband (on banjo or acoustic guitar, mostly self-composed, possibly a little longer than needed), the paramedic’s coffee looked suspiciously like gluhwein, I never realised angels had body piercing let alone dressed in fashionable shades of white (apparently the belt outside the pants is “in” in heaven?) and there was some dubious doubling up of parts which only confused those of us stupid enough not to understand the dialogue.

Yes Im being harsh. And with no reason. The target audience loved it – the kids (when they weren’t eating bits of the church, each other or just destroying stuff) and the old ladies had a great time. The adults acting in the play got to overact and have some fun. The rest of us adults got to take the piss out of them. And everyone went home feeling happy, and feeling like you'd seen everyone. That’s what you feel in Germany – Christmas is a time for the whole village or town to celebrate. In Portugal its very family oriented so the celebration is behind closed doors in the family home. Italy is similar, although because of the strong presence of Catholicism there is more place for the church/community in the celebration. Joerg explained to me that while the church was full it wasn’t necessarily people are super-religious, it was more that the church was a place to celebrate – birth, coming-of-age, death, Christmas, Easter, Harvest - it is a “club” where everyone belonged and could come to enjoy these things together. I still think theyre more religious than the “average” Australian or Englishperson (!) but what is average? Ive had Christmas in 4 countries now, with my family, my extended family, other peoples families, alone (once!). These experiences has left Christmas a little less special as some of the traditions don't get to continue year to year. Also being away from people for long periods and on “important” days have left me having to cherish anytime I get together with those I love, instead of enjoying being there on a certain day. To get tradition you start from what happens at Christmas when you were young – for me that was Christmas at my Austrian grandmothers with my cousins. Christmas in Germany bought a lot of those memories back – hearing “Silent Night” sung in German (Stille Nacht :) and realising I almost knew the words just as well from my Dad, Aunt, Grandmother singing. The sugary and bready stöllen cake packed with raisins or almonds. The tray of ginger biscuits, marzipan, especially in chocolates (s someone who usually doesnt eat chocolate Ive eaten more in the last week than I had all year!). The Christmas decorations. Even sitting there while people spoken German around me reminded me of listening to the “adults” at Christmas talking about things I had no comprehension of at that age. I suspect Christmas will become more special again when we have it as a family now especially after living abroad and Derek’s kid.
Anyway once the kids have been fed enough Christmas cheer and stories, ok and chocolate too!, its time for the adults to indulge. Eierlikoer is egg & schnapps (German egg-nog for those who follow American culture) drunk from chocolate shooter glasses (we finished the bottle you see in the photo). Its also time to bring everyone up to date with the village scandal – universal themes, stories of weddings (OMG why did she think she could wear strapless?!!), deaths (expected and unexpected), couples having kids, or wanting more kids but unable to have any. When you’re a guest you still feel some of this – you draw parallels with your own family and friends, empathy is a universal emotion and you feel just as glad & sad for them, especially when you’ve been brought “into the circle” a bit as I was lucky enough to be.
Theres also some great Christmas superstitions around here. Whatever you dream on the 12 days of Christmas will come true in the next year, down to the fact the day you dream it corresponds to the month it will occur (1st night = January, 2nd = February, etc. etc.). Also its bad luck to wash your bedlinen, tablecloths anything in these 12 days. That’s why you get paper table napkins around Christmas time.

Christmas Shopping

All the different wursts to tempt you

The most important part of a supermarket in Germany is the beer section. I call it paradise. Deciding which beer to have from the endless wall of crates is very hard. I can be a little like a kid in a lolly shop :)

The real business of Christmas is the Christmas decorations. Most of these are hand-crafted, wood, little toys and figurines, rotating panoramas powered by hot air rising from candles, pyramids with carved Nativity scenes. But theres also the music, the Weinachmarkts, the lights…. You know its Christmas here. Unlike Australia where it just seems like more advertising, or Portugal where it’s a little haphazard.
Im a little concerned about some of the things associated with xmas in germany though.
Im not sure what sex-bread tastes like. But Im sure its cheap at the price.

Zittau

Zittau is the nearest city to Ruppersdorf (well Ruppersdorf is between it and Lobau, another city further west).

The paper Christmas stars as seen here hanging above the Rathaus door are very characteristic of the region. They represent the Star of Bethlehem and are made of 20-odd paper cones (square-based for the engineers :P) stuck together. Every building, window, room in the area has at least one in all sizes from baby to 2m high.

Christmas display with sheep and JoergKloisterkirche