Christvesper, Christmas Eve

On Christmas Eve I went to Christvesper at Joergs church. The church is 14th/15th Century and immaculate inside with pristine white paint, gold trim (photos, photos). The service was the normal mix of readings, Christmas carols (all in German, although Silent Night is universal) to a full house of families with kids either enjoying it or making their own fun. There was a “updated” nativity play starting from angels concerned about less prayers, changing to an emergency ward and paramedics complaining that Christmas was just another day but then a Navity play came to the ward which made everyone remember the Christmas message. Of course you wish it was this succinct - like all amateur productions it went on a bit. There were musical interludes from the ministers husband (on banjo or acoustic guitar, mostly self-composed, possibly a little longer than needed), the paramedic’s coffee looked suspiciously like gluhwein, I never realised angels had body piercing let alone dressed in fashionable shades of white (apparently the belt outside the pants is “in” in heaven?) and there was some dubious doubling up of parts which only confused those of us stupid enough not to understand the dialogue.

Yes Im being harsh. And with no reason. The target audience loved it – the kids (when they weren’t eating bits of the church, each other or just destroying stuff) and the old ladies had a great time. The adults acting in the play got to overact and have some fun. The rest of us adults got to take the piss out of them. And everyone went home feeling happy, and feeling like you'd seen everyone. That’s what you feel in Germany – Christmas is a time for the whole village or town to celebrate. In Portugal its very family oriented so the celebration is behind closed doors in the family home. Italy is similar, although because of the strong presence of Catholicism there is more place for the church/community in the celebration. Joerg explained to me that while the church was full it wasn’t necessarily people are super-religious, it was more that the church was a place to celebrate – birth, coming-of-age, death, Christmas, Easter, Harvest - it is a “club” where everyone belonged and could come to enjoy these things together. I still think theyre more religious than the “average” Australian or Englishperson (!) but what is average? Ive had Christmas in 4 countries now, with my family, my extended family, other peoples families, alone (once!). These experiences has left Christmas a little less special as some of the traditions don't get to continue year to year. Also being away from people for long periods and on “important” days have left me having to cherish anytime I get together with those I love, instead of enjoying being there on a certain day. To get tradition you start from what happens at Christmas when you were young – for me that was Christmas at my Austrian grandmothers with my cousins. Christmas in Germany bought a lot of those memories back – hearing “Silent Night” sung in German (Stille Nacht :) and realising I almost knew the words just as well from my Dad, Aunt, Grandmother singing. The sugary and bready stöllen cake packed with raisins or almonds. The tray of ginger biscuits, marzipan, especially in chocolates (s someone who usually doesnt eat chocolate Ive eaten more in the last week than I had all year!). The Christmas decorations. Even sitting there while people spoken German around me reminded me of listening to the “adults” at Christmas talking about things I had no comprehension of at that age. I suspect Christmas will become more special again when we have it as a family now especially after living abroad and Derek’s kid.
Anyway once the kids have been fed enough Christmas cheer and stories, ok and chocolate too!, its time for the adults to indulge. Eierlikoer is egg & schnapps (German egg-nog for those who follow American culture) drunk from chocolate shooter glasses (we finished the bottle you see in the photo). Its also time to bring everyone up to date with the village scandal – universal themes, stories of weddings (OMG why did she think she could wear strapless?!!), deaths (expected and unexpected), couples having kids, or wanting more kids but unable to have any. When you’re a guest you still feel some of this – you draw parallels with your own family and friends, empathy is a universal emotion and you feel just as glad & sad for them, especially when you’ve been brought “into the circle” a bit as I was lucky enough to be.
Theres also some great Christmas superstitions around here. Whatever you dream on the 12 days of Christmas will come true in the next year, down to the fact the day you dream it corresponds to the month it will occur (1st night = January, 2nd = February, etc. etc.). Also its bad luck to wash your bedlinen, tablecloths anything in these 12 days. That’s why you get paper table napkins around Christmas time.