Thursday, August 16, 2007

Prague

All the brand names are in Prague and a low exchange rate used to mean bargains galore. But with the arrival of tourists the prices have shifted, and the big stores have moved in now the Czech Republic is part of the EU. In some sort of bizarre high street war a four storey Marks and Spencers now faces off with Debenhams across Wencelas Square. There’s also Tescos, Accessorise, H&M all selling to bargain-hunting English/Italians, or Eastern Europeans keen to purchase the look of the new Europe. However it's still got an Eastern European flavour - two 20-somethings selling beauty products, both made up to the nines (too much eye-shadow, eye-liner, everything) probably so they could go out later, trying to appeal to the flashy Russians and the more conservative Brits with a portable stereo behind the counter pumping out Western pop.
Prague has changed from backpackers to package tours and is struggling with the transition – where once they hosted people who could navigate their way back to a hostel blind drunk they now host people who can’t even find the toilets in the pub. Yet while the city seems to rely on the tourists it doesn’t seem to enjoy their visits – even the friendliest of staff we encountered were effective more than truly friendly, more interested in getting their service fee and getting the next table in. A couple were downright rude which I could understand given some of the tour groups that I saw, but why take it out on every tourist you see?! Luckily the beer is still good!

Part of this might be that the Czechs seem to try too hard – Don Giovanni is performed EVERY night during August in the Opera House. The reason? it was first performed here in 1787. Nice piece of trivia but why go overboard and stage the opera just in case a tourist wants to relive the moment?

Behind all this Prague is still beautiful. Its worth making the effort to either not let the crowds get to you (we didn’t try to go into any museum or historic sight since the queues were too long) or to get away from the crowds – we got up early to walk the Charles Bridge before the tourists and the souvenir sellers and I rate it one of the highlights of my travels so far.


The entire Old Town is picture postcard so I’m just going to let the photos speak for themselves…..





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